Best afternoon tea in Edinburgh

Afternoon tea at Edinburgh’s Balmoral hotel is a transportive experience. The serene Palm Court welcomes guests to dine beneath the green palm trees, basking in the light from the handsome glass dome overhead. Hand-painted de Gourney wallpaper and gentle harp music are subtle highlights as guests dine from specially commissioned William Edwards fine bone china.

Having chosen from over 80 teas, the attentive waiting staff pour the first cup in an impressive tea-pouring ceremony, lifting the teapots high above their heads while never spilling a drop. The food begins with an amuse bouche of white bean and fennel velouté. The savouries swiftly follow: goat's cheese mousse with green olive tapenade, parmesan sablé with asparagus and egg yolk, and a selection of sandwiches. The scones are accompanied by homemade Balmoral jam crafted by Heather Hills Farm. Delicate sweets include a light strawberry & chamomile choux. Plus, you can add a glass of Charles Heidsiec champagne to the experience. A children’s afternoon tea menu is also available. A wonderful finishing touch is a small tin of loose tea to take home – the perfect memento. Stay the night at The Balmoral, which was recently announced the 2022-23 AA Hotel of the Year Scotland.

Palm Court at the Balmoral, 1 Princes St, Edinburgh EH2 2EQ

The Lighthouse Restaurant, Fingal

££
The nautical one – best for luxury in a unique setting.

Docked in Leith, Fingal is a stunning setting for afternoon tea. The ship’s 2-star AA Rosette Lighthouse restaurant has elegant art deco interiors, with subtle nautical touches and a shimmering ceiling reminiscent of rippling waves. Try the ship’s own Fingal Blend tea, hand-crafted by Pekoe Tea Edinburgh. The food sets sail with an amuse bouche of sweet potato velouté, followed by delicate savouries such as hot smoked salmon potato pancake and Wye Valley asparagus & chorizo tart. Sandwiches range from duck egg mayonnaise & cress, to smoked salmon with avocado & radish, all served on angular art deco platters.

The scones are accompanied by Perthshire Preserves strawberry jam before the grand finale of sweets are consumed. Look out for the rich amaretto & raspberry white chocolate bar, then freshen the palate with a lemon & poppy seed macaron. Enhance the afternoon tea experience with a drink from a menu of champagne upgrades. An added bonus? Indulgence is guilt-free, as Fingal’s part of the not-for-profit Britannia Trust. After a glamorous £5 million conversion, luxury cabins and suites can be booked aboard this floating hotel.

Fingal, Alexandra Dock, Leith, Edinburgh, EH6 7DX, 0131 357 5000

Colonnades at The Signet Library

£££
The literary one – best for double the treats.

Surrounded by elegant Corinthian columns in a library used by the Society of Writers to His Majesty’s Signet, take tea in the calming interiors of this elegant A-listed building. Don't expect one glorious bespoke silver cake stand – here, visitors await two. The savoury stand arrives first, and the culinary creations look as beautiful as any sweet confection. From miniature smoked haddock tacos and sweetcorn brûlée with chorizo jam, to inventive goat’s cheese ice cream served in a vibrant red cone, each savoury aims to be a mini dish in each bite. The sweets are visually captivating, too. A vibrant watermelon macaron with an injection of margarita adds fun to the rich flavours, then nibble on a tiny toadstool-shaped roasted strawberry, pomegranate & sumac pavlova, before indulging in a honeycomb lollipop. Add bubbles by choosing between Sumarocca Cava brut or Monopole Silver Top champagne. Vegetarian and gluten-free menus have also been carefully curated.

The Signet Library, Parliament Square, Edinburgh EH1 1RF

The Witchery

££
The Gothic one – best for renowned food and dramatic decor.

The Witchery prides itself on atmospheric dining in baroque surroundings. Take tea either in the original candlelit oak-panelled dining room, or within the Secret Garden with its hand-painted ceiling and outdoor terrace for Edinburgh’s sunnier days. Savouries include Findlay's of Portobello haggis with pineapple chutney & asparagus, and spinach & tarragon quiche. Sweet highlights feature a 'Dragon' tea cake, and Valhrona Ariaga chocolate tart with a cocoa nib tuille. Add bubbles by ordering a glass of Billecart-Salmon champagne, and, to make a night of it, book into sumptuous accommodation. Nine individual suites offer varying degrees of the dark, dramatic, romantic and gothic.

The Witchery, 352 Castlehill, Edinburgh EH1 2NF

Holy Cow

£
The animal-friendly one – best for vegans and vegetarians.

Holy Cow offers animal-friendly, guilt-free indulgence, and it’s gluten-free, too. Look out for colourful beetroot wraps with wasabi & green pea hummus, and a carrot wrap stuffed with carrot lox, cashew soft cheese, capers and fresh dill. Sandwiches include ‘no fish’ mackerel made with tofu and nori. Sweet desserts provide vegan alternatives to clotted cream with scones, Victoria sponge and chocolate & coffee cake. There are a few Holy Cow venues in Scotland’s capital, but afternoon tea is only served at its Dundee Street property, and must be pre-booked. The cafés have an airy, laidback and informal atmosphere, with a loyal vegan following.

Holy Cow, Castle Mills, 1 Dundee Street, EH3 9FP

The Ivy on the Square

£
The trendy one – best for a dash of Great Gatsby theatrical style.

The Ivy is the place to meet and greet, see and be seen in gregarious and bold surroundings, with lush greenery and rich furnishings. Its very reasonably priced ‘Dream afternoon tea’ has the wow-factor, as dry ice cascades from a pink flower topper down the yellow cake stand. Start with a grilled chicken & truffle mayonnaise brioche, or perhaps sample The Ivy 1917 cure smoked salmon & soft cheese finger sandwich. The sweet treats are super-cute, featuring edible flowers or served in dinky flower pots to channel a flamboyant ‘back to nature’ vibe. Dig into a honeycomb & dark chocolate plant pot, or slurp an Alice in Wonderland-esque ‘Drink Me’ mango & coconut smoothie. Upgrade by adding a glass of Nyetimber English sparkling wine.

The Ivy, 6 St Andrew Square, Edinburgh EH2 2BD

Red Bus Bistro

££
The one on the move – best for sightseeing as you dine.

If you’re big on fun and/or short on time, see the sights of Edinburgh on a vintage Routemaster or Leyland Titan bus while tucking into afternoon tea. Try the Gin Tour, which includes prosecco, full afternoon tea and the bistro’s gin ‘pot-tails’: a variety of flavoured Scottish gins mixed with aromatic herbs and topped with edible flowers. The food includes traditional scones with whipped cream and jam; a selection of finger sandwiches, mini rolls and wraps; mini quiches; a selection of petit fours and cakes. The route leaves St Andrew Square, taking in the Scott Monument, Edinburgh Castle, Greyfriar’s Bobby, the Elephant House Cafe (where JK Rowling put pen to paper), the Grassmarket, Arthur’s Seat, Holyrood Palace and the Scottish Parliament. Children aged eight and over are welcome to hop aboard, too.

Red Bus Bistro. Pick up at St Andrew Square, Edinburgh, EH2 2AD.

And there’s more…

If you’re seeking an all-rounder, head to The Dome, renowned for its Christmas afternoon teas and array of afternoon tea menus, including children’s, gluten-free and vegan, plus a morning tea with bacon and sausage rolls. If cakes made by the Scottish Baker of the Year sound tempting, plump for Mimi’s Bakehouse, offering afternoon tea at its Leith and Corstorphine branches. Finally, if it’s a case of location, location, location, head to the country seat of Prestonfield House, dine in the former Scotsman newspaper HQ, or look up the afternoon teas dished up at the historic Edinburgh Castle and Palace of Holyroodhouse.

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