Spinach with brown butter & capers

Method

• step 1

  First clarify the butter (to remove impurities so it can be heated without burning): put the butter in a saucepan on a low-medium heat until it starts to bubble, then remove from the heat. Once the cloud of sediment has settled, carefully pour off the golden liquid.

• step 2

  Although the bags say ‘washed and prepared’, large-leafed spinach usually needs a wash, as well as a check to remove any damaged leaves or tough stalks. Before you go on, have a large bowl, a spider (see tip below) and two colanders to hand, as well as a sink of cold water.

• step 3

  Bring a huge saucepan of salted water to the boil. Stuff in about 250g/9oz spinach and leave for 30-45 seconds until just wilted, then scoop leaves into the bowl, draining off as much water as possible. Tip the spinach into a colander and plunge it into the sink. Swish the leaves until cool, then drain in the other colander. Repeat until all the spinach has been blanched.

• step 4

  Use your hands to squeeze as much water as possible from the spinach, then pile it onto a clean, threadbare tea towel (in two batches, if necessary). Twist the ends and squeeze out the rest of the water.

• step 5

  Put a large frying pan over a medium heat and add the clarified butter. Heat until light golden, then add black pepper and nutmeg. After about a minute, when it is gingerbread-coloured and smells nutty, add the spinach and capers and season. Lower the heat and toss the leaves until warmed through. Serve immediately.