Melissa Thompson on the brilliant women who inspire her
Our columnist speaks to women in hospitality about the highlights and challenges of working in the industry. This article is exclusive to BBC Good Food app and magazine subscribers.
This month marks International Women’s Day. On 8 March, under the theme #EmbraceEquity, women all over the world will be celebrated. But, how do we achieve equity in a society where women are still paid less and take on more responsibility in the home?
Changes are happening: society has begun to recognise the importance of women in food, and there are lots of brilliant women doing incredible things. Here, we speak to some of them about their experiences in the industry, and what advice they would give to others seeking a career in food.
The author
Rinku Dutt runs Raastawala (raastawala.com), a Kolkata street-food company, and is the author of Kolkata (£26, Smith Street Books)
Which women do you admire in food?
My mother and Garima Arora – the first Indian woman to win a Michelin star.
What advice would you give to someone starting out?
It’s hard work and fast-paced, but rewarding once your work is recognised.
Your dream three-course meal?
Papdi chaat, then a garlic butter naan with chargrilled tandoori chicken and fresh salad with a tangy dressing, with rasmalai for dessert.
What are the most challenging aspects of working in food?
There are so many avenues within the food industry, and learning which one is for you can take time.
What are the best?
When people try our food and I see their reaction.
What piece of kitchen equipment could you not live without?
My masala tin and nine most-used spices.
What obstacles are there for women working in food?
Being taken seriously in a male-dominated kitchen. I’m blessed with a great team now, but I have previously faced challenges employing male chefs.
What changes would you like to see in food for women?
An equal platform for women chefs, without the glass ceiling.
The supper club host
Martha De Lacey is a baker, supper club host and founder of online baking school, The Muff Kitchen.
What's your advice for someone starting out in the food industry?
Contact your favourite restaurants and ask to do a stage (a work experience placement). I took holiday to do stages and came away an infinitely better cook.
Your dream three-course meal?
Oysters and champagne, followed by an enormous platter of lamb chops and ribs on top of a heaving pile of chips, and a cheeseboard.
What are the most challenging aspects of working in food?
The hours. Never seeing friends unless they come in to eat.
And the best?
Working with like-minded people is a joy.
What piece of kitchen equipment could you not live without?
My cast-iron Dutch oven for sourdough.
What obstacles are there for women working in food?
Some old-school restaurant kitchens can be a bit of a boys’ club.
What changes would you like to see in food for women?
Options for flexible working hours in restaurants, and more investment in female-owned businesses.
The restaurant owner
Helen Tse is an author and co-owner of Manchester’s Sweet Mandarin restaurant.
What’s your advice for someone starting out in the food industry?
Love what you do and have savings. The restaurant business is precarious. Save for the quiet days to avoid going grey early. I didn’t and I’m quite grey now.
Dream three-course meal?
BBQ ribs, Chinese-style. Main – wagyu steak and whole lobster with sweet potato fries. For dessert, a passion fruit soufflé.
What are the most challenging aspects of working in food?
You’re only as good as your last meal cooked, and people have very short-term memories. Goodwill takes years to build up and a minute to smash.
What are the best?
I’m in a family business, so I’m surrounded by love. I do this job knowing my future generations have something to fall back on if they choose to.
What piece of kitchen equipment could you not live without?
My trusted wok.
What obstacles are there for women working in food?
Childcare is a massive issue. You can’t rock a baby behind the bar!
What changes would you like to see for women in the future?
More appreciation of the sacrifices women make. It’s a labour of love.
The chef
Victoria Idowu is a chef, recipe developer and supper club host, and Stormzy’s private chef.
What is your dream three-course meal?
Tempura prawns to start. Main, abula (a soup). Dessert, my friend Kunle’s cheesecake.
What piece of kitchen equipment could you not live without?
My slow cooker.
The most challenging aspects of working in food?
Sexism.
What are the best?
It has to be the food itself: the creativity and the storytelling.
What obstacles are there for women working in food?
Being a black woman in food. I’m used to predominantly seeing men in kitchens; it can be hard to press on with your vision when you don’t see ‘you’ in places you’d love to be.
What changes would you like to see for women in the future?
More diversity with those that are championed and showcased. Not being called upon for the ‘Afro Caribbean’ edit, but for all types of opportunities.
The food entrepreneur
Laura Sylvester runs Boca Loco, a Sussex-based supper club and street-food business.
What women do you admire in food?
My late nanny, Ida. She was an amazing cook and a dinner lady back when they made the food from scratch.
Advice for someone starting out in the food industry?
Have a thick skin. Be prepared for long hours and working weekends.
Your dream three-course meal?
Seared scallops, BBQ fish and jerk prawns for main, with loads of salads and a cheeseboard.
Most challenging aspects of working in food?
Being away from my family and friends.
What kitchen equipment could you not live without?
My knives.
What are the best?
Having my dream job, and getting to work with people who are passionate and who I admire.
Are there obstacles as a woman working in food?
Sometimes customers will go to the male team members, rather than think a woman could actually run a successful business.
What changes would you like to see in food for women?
The stigma of being at work a lot as a mother. And more recognition for women generally in the industry.
The private chef
Nisha Parmar is a food writer and private chef for celebrities including Rochelle Humes and Joe Wicks. In 2018, she appeared on MasterChef.
What women do you admire in food?
Nigella inspired me to cook from a young age. Cooking became a pleasure, not just a chore.
Advice for someone starting out in the food industry?
Make good connections and grow your social media. Never stop learning and embrace opportunities to improve.
Most challenging aspects about working in food?
It’s sometimes not the best-paid industry, and it’s very competitive.
What are the best?
It's a diverse, ever-changing, exciting and creative industry to be a part of.
What kitchen equipment could you not live without?
My chapati rolling pin and board.
What obstacles are there for women working in food?
It can be challenging to manage a family. When I told friends and family I wanted to work in food, they didn’t take it seriously. They thought it was just a hobby.
What changes would you like to see in the food industry for women in the future?
I think we’re already seeing change. We have strong female role models that are inspiring the next generation.
Melissa Thompson is one of our regular columnists. In 2021, she was given the prestigious Food Writing Award by the Guild of Food Writers and this year was named Writer of the Year at the Professional Publisher’s Association Awards.
Comments, questions and tips
